Since we saw a few of the less traverse areas of Phuket, we decided to visit the most popular spots which was Railay Beach and Koh Phi Phi. There were two areas on my ‘100 places to visit’ poster that I wanted to check off. 

Day 18 – December 4, 2018

Our first stop was Railay beach. We arrived with our beachfront resort but no early check-in so instead we hit the beach. We walked to Phra Nang Beach which is about 15 minutes away. It was a beautiful but busy beach. It started to rain but we wandered about and enjoyed a late lunch at these food long tail boats. 

We did a night clear kayak tour to locate bioluminescent plankton and fish. This was super fun and unlike anything I’ve ever done before. I only wish there were more fish to see… apparently the tide was too high.

Day 19 – December 5, 2018

One of the main upsides to staying overnight on Railay Bay was enjoying breakfast in front of the beach. Since none of the daytrippers arrived yet, I could swim in the beach mostly to myself. It was once of the best parts. 

We ventured up to the viewpoint during high tide. I was a little nervous because I hurt my ankle the day before falling down some stairs and this hike was actually pretty challenging climb. There was still a warning sign from the rainy evening before but a couple in front of us reassured us that it is fine. I expected the sign just wasn’t removed from the night before.

So up we went with this solo traveler who was wearing flip flops. It was a pretty vertical climb in muddy conditions but do able and a lot of fun. The view at the top was definitely worth it and I was glad to see the view with high tides. It’s very bare and gross at low tide… the sea recesses so far back 

We questioned whether to keep venturing forward to locate the lagoon. We wander with three other travelers and went deeper down beyond a couple of warning signs. This was very muddy and much harder than accessing the viewpoint. We saw a small glimpse of the lagoon until it was too challenging to go further. It was pure bouldering and rock climbing at that point and I didn’t feel confident enough to get back up. It was quite the adventure. 

Railay also had a popular day trip to the nearby islands, Koh Poda, Koh Tup, Koh Mor and Koh Gai. We rented a long tail for the rest of the day to take us there. Koh Poda was our first stop and it was a little busy when we got dropped off. Little did I know, it was worst on the other side where the daytrippers parked. Regardless, it was gorgeous turquoise waters with fine white sand.

Unfortunately, when we got to Koh Tup and Koh Mor, the tide was too low and we weren’t able to see the postcard view of the double lined beach walkway. 

One our way back, we explored Diamond Cave which was on another side of the bay. This cave had lighting, a boardwalk, interesting formations and tons of bats!

Railay also had a small walking street for nightlife. It wasn’t too wild but there were bars and places to eat. It was just the right about of liveliness. 

Day 20 – December 6, 2018

I had read many reviews that Koh Phi Phi islands is overrun by tourists and there are better islands to visit. Regardless I had to check it off my bucket list and it was a good change from our earlier off-the-beaten-track stops. As as our boat dock, I quickly understood why advanced travellers dislike Koh Phi Phi. 

The port was like lines into Disneyworld and entire island was artificially designed for tourists. Hotels were on every corner. Massage parlors, bars, restaurants and oddly popular tattoo shops lined the pedestrian-only streets. I would say Koh Phi Phi wasn’t my favorite but I still enjoyed my time here. 

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While the infamous Maya Bay brought me to the Koh Phi Phi islands, Pileh Lagoon was the best experience in Koh Phi Phi. Our driver took us there during low tide which doesn’t allow bigger tour boats to access.

This meant minimal crowds in this emerald crystal clear waters surrounded by limestones. I can imagine how special and beautiful Maya Bay and this island, Koh Phi Phi Lee was before the tourists invaded. 

After the lagoon, we went to Loh Samah Bay to snorkel. There were a lot of fish and even more when the driver threw bread in where I was swimming… too much to the point that it freaked me out and had to tell him to stop. But the coral looked unhealthy compared to Surin Islands. This is likely due to the number of tourists and boats. 

Unfortunately, Maya Bay was closed by the government but I got to see it afar as an empty paradise. How I would have loved to stand on that beach (with no tourists) but I’m glad they are trying to protect and preserve it.

I’ve heard of the fun beachfront parties on Koh Phi Phi so we headed out to find them. It’s not a wild full moon party but it was still fun with loud music, fire dancers and light-up limbo activities. 

Day 21 – December 7, 2018

We woke up early to hike to the Koh Phi Phi viewpoint and enjoy breakfast. The first viewpoint had very kitschy decor and the second viewpoint had the better view —not as nice as Railay viewpoint but maybe just desensitized. The cafe wasn’t open so we just got a mediocre Thai iced tea and cup noodles. 

Then, we rented a longtail to take us to Bamboo Island. The water was beautifully blue but it was very touristy and similar to Koh Poda. 

We checked out of our hotel and Chi insisted on Mcdonalds… Yes, you know it’s touristy when there is a McDonalds! I compromised to have lunch there as long as we can head to a mango dessert shop. This was so good.

We took a ferry from Koh Phi Phi back to Phuket and from there took a shared shuttle to our final hotel stay, Keemala. The photos and raving reviews sold me on staying here and it exceeded my expectations. We checked in at night and was flipping out at how beautiful the villa was. We order room service for dinner, took a bath, dipped in our private outdoor pool and just maximized relaxing during our stay. 

We did leave the resort that night to Bangla Road to meet Chi’s friend, Janet and her fiancée. I wasn’t sure what to expect of the area since I’ve never been a red light district… I was just curious to walk through and see the hype. It was wild, sinful and I can clearly see women looking for their clients. Not my favorite scene but definitely eye-opening.  

Day 22 – December 8, 2018

The next morning we took a quick “photography” tour of the Keemala grounds and was introduced to the best photo spots.

We then enjoyed the most plentiful breakfast buffet that had made-to-order dishes, fresh juices and even honeycomb for honey.

With a complimentary late checkout, we returned to our room to swim, nap and of course take photos of our lavish stay. This was the splurge stay (the most I’ve ever paid!) but it was the most unique architecture and experience I’ve ever stayed at.

After checking out, we lounged by the main pool. The resort provided us a spa room for showers and changing.  It was perfect to lounge, relax and reflect on our honeymoon. 

We eventually left the resort and headed to the Chillvas market in Phuket which I read was great for shopping and eating. It was a good market and I bought a few things but it wasn’t as big as Bangkok or Chiang Mai markets. We then collected our luggage and began our long journey home. 

Phuket was my least favorite area because it is hard and expensive to get around and not much to see. It is scattered with popular touristy beach towns and big resorts. It’s not as metropolitan as Bangkok or charming like Chiang Mai… it felt bland in perspective but rich in resort-life catering to vacationers. It’s fine as a stopover enroute to the islands or going north to Khao Sok.